He may have died last November, but Virgil Abloh survived a high-powered runway for Louis Vuitton men’s clothing during Paris Fashion Week on Thursday. A black marching band gave a thrilling performance in an unrealistic yellow brick road installation inside the Louvre, while rapper Kendrick Lamar served a live ad to the American fashion star who was a Whitton men’s clothing designer from 2018 until his death.
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Here are some highlights of Thursday Spring-Summer 2023 in Paris.
Ablo Marching Band
“Long live Virgil … how many miles?” Went live rap by Lamar at the suffocating hot Vuitton show. The yellow road set that snuck around the Louvre’s oldest yard is reminiscent of the “Wizard of Oz” consciousness and the common childhood obsessions in Ablo’s designs – such as a colorful costume marching band and dance troupe with several band members from Florida A&M University. Which appeared with a bang at the beginning and end of the show.
This spring-summer show was the first presentation he did not design after Abloh’s death (the previous posthumous show was based on his own creations). On Thursday, it was a collection fully conceived by Bhutan Studios instead. This rare continuity of a former designer’s aesthetics is a strong indication of the man’s level of influence.
Stars such as Omar Sai, Jessica Biel, Justin Timberlake, Joel Edgerton and Naomi Campbell have further proven the pull of her legacy.
VUITTON’s studio show
This is a great achievement for a studio that mimics the style of a former designer – with originality.
On Thursday’s display it was: from the hems of the shirts to the cut in zigzag pattern, the 3-D paper plane appliqu উপর on the suit and other worldwide, elongated silhouettes.
A finely crafted jacket with a Trump Lowell print provides many touches of old-school luxuries. Such moments in this collection seem to have surpassed even Ablohar’s own runway design.
They have created a careful line between the sporty style associated with the home since 2018 and the subtle luxurious stitching seen during the time of predecessor Kim Jones.
The power of the display was indebted to many of its design achievements. One case was the waist of a black double breasted jacket that was pulled similar to a V on its side. Its very silhouette reveals the monogram of the house.
Louis Vuitton’s design studio has just stopped the trend of wasting a lot of cooking soup.
Miseke death-scientific fashion in the home place ice
Blurring the line between fashion and performance, the Japanese house EC Mia for Home Pleasure used a team of acrobats who rebelled, danced and apparently refused to die for a spectacular Paris Fashion Week men’s show.
In eye-popping colors inspired by flowers and vases, the models danced with the actors inside the newly reformed La Poste du Louvre for this unusual and sensitive showcase of fashion design.
Models wear creations as part of the Issey Miyake Homme Plisse Men’s Spring Summer 2023 collection presented in Paris, France. (AP Photo / Franোয়াois Mori)
From a hidden edge above the courtyard runway, a dance troupe suddenly stood in the middle of the noise, panting from the audience. The actors, dressed in pastel-colored, loose-fitting plated attire, then climb the stairs, before the death-defying leap, fall and fall. The performers were thrown into the air like missiles, to be caught by dancers across the yard. There was no safety fence above the hard stone floor.
The show was directed by Rachid Oramden of the Theater National de Charlotte, featuring a set of acrobats, Compagnie XY.
Fashion was softer than itself. The successive curves in the neck and middle have mimicked vase shapes with a nice weight that created a dynamic silhouette. A pleated tunic in pastel red was paired with a short jacket, whose breast panels resembled those of an Asian warrior. Elsewhere, a waistcoat carved pocket of lively dandelion that blooms like an open flower.
Color-blocking was also a strong theme – contrasting pastel purple with blush and raisin black in one look, and pastel yellow and midnight blue in the other. It was a strong comeback on the runway of EC Mia Home Pleas.
Rick Owens’s Ancient Egypt
American designer Rick Owens entered the ancient world for inspiration, returned from a position in Egypt and visited the Edfu Temple on the Nile River.
Often a philosopher, Owens stated that his “personal concerns চ্ছ in the face of such inconveniences, seemed insignificant.” He commented on the effects of the epidemic in fashion and beyond in recent seasons – and embraced the lockdown as a time of introspection.
Owens has always made an aesthetic riffing of ancient Egyptian costume, with Togas, Drapes and High Priestess styles engulfing her runway. But on Thursday’s show he introduced the dial to take on such silhouettes very personally.
“Lying in the dirt with the Valley of the Kings was one of my favorite perspectives,” he said.
Like the tall stone carvings of the ancient temple, the silhouettes were lengthened with a layer of clothing so that the middle was low. The dark flared pants were so long that the fabric ran along the stone steps as the models landed at the Palais de Tokyo venue. It has created a fun surreal effect.
The “Extreme Shoulder” – huge and round – is made by this Egyptian priest vibe, made by the American fashion master in silk chiffon, crisp cotton and greasy plaid.
What am i
French designer Alexandre Matthews continued his inclination to use A-list French actresses as model-muse on Thursday evening’s co-ed show, which spread to the 80s.
This spring season, the burst of celebrity pizzas comes from “Amelie” and “Da Vinci Code” star Audrey Tautou, who launched a new oversized eCru trench and hot cropped white jeans.
The rest of the show was defined by the typical AMI fare of the salable look, such as the large size ’80s suit jacket and knee high stripper boots.
Cheeks – Argyle, Gingham Tartan style – mixed with stripes – Breton, pin and sporty – to create a light twist in Matthew’s bread-and-butter style.
However, plus size models were a welcome addition to the Paris runway and added a sense of inclusion.
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