Combining unusually high temperatures with the look of next summer on the runway of Milan Fashion Week is becoming a practice of cognitive inconsistency.
While shaking up to sustainability, the designers are still proposing looks that don’t make fun of the longer summer heat waves, and instead seem to focus on customers who either live in the northern climate, who rely on cool evenings or air conditioning. Maybe, or those just don’t use. Does not care
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Here are some highlights from the Sunday preview of Most Men’s Clothing for Spring-Summer 2023:
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Prada’s Gingham Nostalgia
The Miuccia Prada-Raf Simons collaboration on Prada has been a proven success, creating recognizable pieces that attract attention from afar and give the brand recognition. This is quite a feat for the co-creators who joined the force just as the epidemic put the world on lockdown and which did not completely relax its grip.
Study and refine the silhouette for next spring and summer, another easy read. It started with a lapel-lace suit with hidden buttons, down to boots from tapered skinny trousers. The pair introduced boy notes with striped ribs or color-block knitwear. Large-sized bags contribute to the feeling of childhood, playing with adult things, while models walk through a paper mock-up of an unconventional house.
Nostalgia came in the form of oversized gingham, reminiscent of a kitchen tablecloth, traditionally played against a woman’s domain, leather grunge: sleeveless short set and trench, occasionally layered a gingham trench.
The question continues: How is it a summer dress? Where exactly is this summer?
But judging from those in the fashion crowd in knit turtlenecks and leather coats, the question may be the point where Prada is concerned.
Behind the scenes, Prada welcomed guests, including Jake Gillenhall, Jeff Goldblum and Rami Malek, who himself wore a cashmere gray short-sleeved sweater and an organza sheath skirt.
“Fashion as a method, a way as well as a means of appearance,” the designers said in a show note. “An expression of choice.”
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MOSCHINO brings seasonal clothing to Milan
Jeremy Scott set the weird Mosino tone with a squiggle before it exploded in Lowell, full of graphic inspiration from the late American artist Tony Viramentes.
It was Mosino’s first men’s-only show in Milan.
Scott said he wanted to “shed some light on this brilliant creator” described in fashion notes as “a lively chameleon in pop-bright colors.”
A glossy face on a two-tone jacket sets the art art tone, then continues to grow into squiggles, graphic dot prints and photographic details painted under trousers and lapels that recreate the look of creases and creases in clothing.
For the spring-summer of 2023, the Moschino silhouette features a punk-military vibe that challenges the rules of gender in a way that has become increasingly mainstream on luxury runways.
Shorts or trousers, pleated aprons are worn on the front or back for the effect of the skirt.
But there’s no reason to stop, because Scott also imagines pleated punk skirts and long straight skirts for men. These looks aren’t entirely feminine, wearing caps with military-style jackets and combat boots, not to be underestimated by the make-up wigs underneath the coal eyes.
Scott Olive Kilt saluted on the runway with a T-shirt with “Misfits” written on the front and “EARTH AD” on the back.
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Simon Cracker’s ‘Reality Bite’
Designers Filippo Biraghi and Simon Boat took a radical turn during the epidemic and dedicated their Simon Cracker brand, founded in 2010, entirely to up-bike equipment.
Designers collect unclaimed clothing from laundry and textile remnants from manufacturers, creating unique for their growing pursuits known as cracker crews. Source material includes old cotton and linen bed sheets, men’s shirts, old parachutes, discarded yarn for new knitwear, and recycled jerseys.
The title of the Spring-Summer 2023 collection was “Reality Bites,” from the General-X 1990 film but it is more aptly a reference to the state of the world, and especially the recent brand that is facing that problem.
“We’re having a hard time,” Biraghi said behind the scenes. “‘Reality byte’ is a bit of our experience right now.”
They described the collection as a cross between Holy Hobby and sex pistols, bound by raffles with punk accents. Appearances were decorated with simple embroidery, small patches or doodles like children.
“It’s like the clothes are born beautiful, and then the bites are given,” Boat said.
The models were guys from their cracker crew, capturing different body types and attitudes.
An older male model wearing high-waisted knitwear trousers, a distorted jacket with a red ribbon accent and orange silk panels, moved to dance like a trance down the runway, while a female discarded men carried a tiny dog in a corset shirt over a layered skirt.
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